Native to northern Europe, red currants only really began to be cultivated in Britain with the introduction in the early 17th century of improved Dutch cultivars by plant hunter Tradescant the Elder* (Gareth Richards, ‘Keeping up with currant affairs,’ The Garden, July 2015, p.80.)
Interestingly red, white and pink currants (Ribes rubrum) are distinct from blackcurrants (Ribes nigrum), and although they have broadly similar growing requirements, their pruning is quite different.
Fertilise with blood, fish or bone meal in early spring and early autumn. Plants need regular water when soil is dry or drying out.
Black Currants – Ribes Nigrum
These can be highly productive fruit bushes but become straggly if left unpruned. Prune well to produce a constant supply of new fruiting stems from the base.
Pruning black currants: In established bushes, remove a quarter of the stems down to 2.5 cm (1 inch) from ground level to promote young, fruitful shoots.
Propagating black currants: After all leaves have fallen and the plant is dormant take hard wood cuttings to easily increase your black currant patch.
Red & White Currants – Ribes Rubrum
Pruning red & white currants:
- In winter, prune out dead wood and shoots growing near ground level. Cut all side-shoots back to one to three buds from the base, and shorten all branch tips by a quarter, to outward facing buds.
- In summer, shorten new growth back to five leaves. Fruit develops mainly on older wood, so is not affected by summer pruning.
For more info about redcurrants – including specifics about pruning – see The Garden, July 2015, pp 80-82.
* The sarcophagus of John Tradescant is located in the courtyard terrace of The Museum of Gardening, located in Lambeth, London.
** We have a redcurrant bush planted in front of the white rambling rose in the back patch beds (which lead towards the rhubarb patch). This has been left to grow wild and must be trimmed back and even possibly relocated into a more open, light location to promote fruiting.